Frequently Asked Questions

We offer free UK Mainland (excluding Scottish highlands and Ireland) delivery, positioning and setup on our entire range.
Installation does not cover electrical work; this is your responsibility to have in place before we arrive. We will connect the hot tub to your existing 13, 20 or 32 amp feed, which must be in place ready for us on the day of installation. Please see our FAQ sections below for the electrical requirements.

When you order a hot tub, it is your responsibility to provide a suitable base and electrical connection cabling. Our FAQ sections below detail exactly what is needed for 13 or 32 amp installations.
If a crane is required, it will be your responsibility to arrange and pay for the crane on the day (Unless pre-agreed). We will, of course, let you know whether a crane will be needed and liaise with the crane company on your behalf to ensure everything goes smoothly on the day.

When you purchase one of our 13 Amp models, you will be responsible for providing the electrical connection that we will connect the hot tub to. There are 2 methods of cabling for 13-amp installations - Standard (Plug & Play) or Hardwired.
When we arrive, we will unload and position your new tub, connect it to your power feed, and get it up and running for you before we leave. We'll make sure you have a good understanding of the features of the new tub and are happy with its operation and functions.

When you purchase one of our 32-amp models, you will be responsible for providing the electrical connection that we will connect the hot tub. This work will need to be completed by a qualified electrician. A 32-amp RCD needs to be installed in your home fuse box, with armoured cable run to a 32-amp rotary weatherproof isolation switch, positioned at least 2m away from the hot tub to comply with Health & Safety regulations. Cable then needs to be run to the location of the hot tub, leaving at least enough tail to reach the furthest corner of the tub + 1m. This will enable you to choose the orientation of the hot tub. The size of the cable will be determined by it's length - your electrician will be able to advise you on this.
Outdoor cabling either needs to be SWA or protected by conduit.
When we arrive, we will unload and position your new tub, connect it to your power feed, and get it up and running for you before we leave. We'll make sure you have a good understanding of the features of the new tub and are happy with its operation and functions.

Ideally, we would recommend a solid 4" concrete slab for your new spa to sit on. Alternatives like the new Eco bases can also be used, as long as they are properly laid on a solid surface and filled with the appropriate aggregate such as pea gravel. You can also sit a spa on top of a patio, as long as the slabs are laid correctly onto a good solid base of hardcore and cement.

There are two options when it comes to hot tubs; one that sits atop your decking and one that is submerged within your decking.
The submerged option has become a popular choice for those that have a view they don’t want to obstruct, or they simply don’t want the hassle of having to climb into an above-ground tub, however we will always require a 500mm access on all four side for servicing and any repair work.
The above-ground hot tub is an easier option to an already existing deck; however, you’ll need to take your deck’s weight capacity into account.
If you are building decking especially for the spa, we recommend as a bare minimum that the decking is supported by 4x2" timber, with noggins fixed every 400mm, and concreted into place.
You CANNOT place a spa onto floated decking under any circumstances.

For some properties such as terraced houses, conventional delivery and installation is not always possible. In these cases, a crane or hiab can be used to lift the hot tub into position.
In cases such as these it will be your responsibility to contact and pay a crane company who will assist us on the day of installation. We can recommend companies we have worked with previously, and we are extremely experienced in crane and hiab installs (Most crane companies are well versed in hot tub installations and will be able to give you a competitive quote).
As a general rule, for standard non-crane installs we will need 1m wide access to get your tub into your garden, with an unrestricted 1m wide run to the location where the tub will be installed. If the tub needs to go around any corners, we will need a 2.5m turning circle. We cannot lift hot tubs over walls and fences, and we cannot carry the tub up large flights of steps, although a few small steps here and there aren't a problem.
If you're unsure of your access, please send us some photos and/or a video and we'll be able to tell you if you'll need a crane or not.
No matter the property, there is always a method of installing your hot tub, so don't be put off by your lack of access - We offer a free site service once you've decided on your perfect Hot Tub!

The first is very important; shower before you get in. Your body will have substances on it that will contaminate hot tub water. These include sweat, soap, perfume, shampoo, deodorant, and your swim wear can contain traces of detergent and fabric softener. If you make sure to wash them off before you get in, the hot tub remains cleaner for much longer.
The more contaminated the water becomes because of what you introduce to the water, the harder the hot tub must work to be sure it is clean. More chlorine must be added to be sure the water is clean and safe and the hot tub’s pumps and filters will have to work hard to remove these contaminates in the water. Because of this, avoid using fake tan as it dissolves into the tub water and easily can stain the shell and filters. Your swimwear only should be rinse washed without detergent. If your hot tub foaming, you will need to use anti-foam products which reduce foam that can occur when incorrect cleaning products or excessive algaecide, hair products or make up, false tan creams or skin conditioners get into the water in your tub. Simply pour a cap full of anti-foam around the edges of your tub and watch the foam disappear.
If you use your hot tub every day, consider using a water clarifier to help clean the hot tub of all the soaps, gels, lotions that you and/or your friends, family cannot prevent getting into the spa. A specifically formulated surface cleaner removes any build-up of dirt that may occur around the waterline. Use it on a weekly basis.
Use test strips to measure the chemical level of your water. Dip the testing strip in your water and compare the colour of the pads on the strip to the coloured squares on the testing strip container. If the coloured pad is the same as the square patch on the container you do not need to add any chemicals. If they are different, you need to adjust your hot tubs’ chemical level, add small amounts of chemicals to the water, re-testing each time until the coloured pads match the squares on the container. Wait about 5 minutes between retests and make sure your hot tub water is running when you add chemicals, because it needs to mix in the water well.

To ensure you get the most out of your filter we recommend that you remove, clean and allow the filter to dry naturally every week. This process will prolong the life of the filter and ensure with each use it is performing to its optimum capacity. We strongly suggest having a spare filter with your tub so you have a “wash and a wear”, this makes the routine of swapping and cleaning so much simpler.
Filters should be replaced with new ones every 6 - 12 months to ensure peak performance.